On the Trail of Fidel Castro in the Sierra Maestra

As mentioned in the last post, next to the Viñales valley the Sierra Maestra was the most beautiful landscape of our road trip across Cuba: the mountains around Pico Turquino, Cuba’s highest peak, densely covered in jungle and dotted with small villages. We stayed in a lovely casa in Santo Domingo and drove by jeep early in the morning to the start of the hike.

On foot to Fidel Castro’s hideout

In a small group we hiked for about three hours through the dense jungle to the former hideout of Fidel Castro and his people, among them Che Guevara. The path is so remote that it’s no wonder the army searched and bombed in vain back then. The buildings still stand today and are well kept; the Cubans are visibly proud of them. Fidel’s hut (see the cover picture) has a double bed, a living room and supposedly even a working fridge.

Sunset over the jungle

We returned through two small jungle villages to Santo Domingo, where we enjoyed another beautiful sunset over the forests of the Sierra Maestra.

Mist lying on the treetops of the Sierra Maestra, in black and white
Mist lies on the treetops – early morning in the Sierra Maestra.
Cracked road vanishing into the mist, a concrete gutter on the right, Sierra Maestra, in black and white
A cracked road disappears into the mist.
Signposts to Pico Turquino, the Comandancia de la Plata and Santo Domingo, in black and white
Signposts to Pico Turquino, the Comandancia de la Plata and Santo Domingo.
Hut on stilts in the mist and three hikers on a muddy path, Sierra Maestra
A hut on stilts in the mist and three hikers on the muddy path.
Mossy signposts: La Platica to the right, Casa de Medina to the left, Sierra Maestra
Mossy signs: La Platica to the right, Casa de Medina to the left.
Tall trunks in the dark and a path over mossy rocks, Sierra Maestra
Tall trunks in the dark and a path over mossy rocks.
Pine branches framing a misty, wooded slope of the Sierra Maestra
Pine branches frame the misty slope.
Dark path between large pale boulders in the jungle of the Sierra Maestra
A dark path between pale boulders.
Dense palm undergrowth in the shady jungle of the Sierra Maestra
Dense palm undergrowth in the shady jungle.
Densely packed palm fronds with dark trunks behind, Sierra Maestra
Palm fronds packed tight, dark trunks behind.
Palm fronds on the left and pale trunks in the undergrowth on the right, Sierra Maestra, in black and white
Palm fronds and pale trunks in the undergrowth.
Muddy, winding path through the green jungle of the Sierra Maestra
A muddy path winds through the green jungle.
A tall palm rising in the mist above the forest of the Sierra Maestra, in black and white
A tall palm rises out of the mist above the forest.
Wooden house with a corrugated-iron roof, a palm hut beside it, clouds on the ridge, Sierra Maestra
A wooden house with a tin roof, a palm hut beside it, clouds on the ridge.
Palm tree in front of a wooded ridge and mist over the canopy of the Sierra Maestra
A palm before the wooded ridge, mist above the canopy.
Wooden house with an open door on the grassy slope, a second house on the left, Sierra Maestra
A wooden house with an open door on the grassy slope.
Looking up: several pale trunks growing together, jungle of the Sierra Maestra
Looking up: pale trunks grown into one another.
Wooden arrow reading Casa de Fidel in the forest of the Sierra Maestra
Casa de Fidel – the arrow points the way to the hideout.
Palm-thatched hut on the slope and a narrow path of roots in the jungle of the Sierra Maestra
A palm-thatched hut on the slope and a narrow root-laced path.
Mist hanging on a wooded ridge, dense green in the foreground, Sierra Maestra
Mist hangs on the wooded ridge – no wonder the army searched here in vain.
Mist in a hollow between dark treetops, Sierra Maestra, in black and white
Mist in a hollow between dark treetops.
Fern slope with a path on the left and a wooded ridge in the mist on the right, Sierra Maestra
A fern-covered slope with a path and a ridge in the mist.
Large palm fronds, some yellow, in front of a misty slope of the Sierra Maestra
Large palm fronds, some already yellow, before the misty slope.
Radio Rebelde sign by the path and tall palms from below, Sierra Maestra
A sign to Radio Rebelde and tall palms seen from below.
Palm roof of a hut and a bench, almost hidden by leaves, Sierra Maestra
The palm roof of a hut, almost hidden by leaves.
Plank hut with two dark doors between slender palms, Sierra Maestra
A plank hut with two dark doors between slender palms – still well kept today.
Looking up into tall, pale palm trunks in the forest of the Sierra Maestra
Looking up into tall, pale palm trunks.
Two tall palms above the dense canopy of the Sierra Maestra
Two tall palms above the dense canopy.
Fern-covered slope and a tall stalk, mist lying in the valley, Sierra Maestra
A fern-covered slope, a tall flower stalk, mist in the valley.
Close-up of a palm frond and palm trunks against a bright sky, Sierra Maestra
A palm frond up close, trunks against a pale sky behind.
Hand-drawn map with Turquino and a bearded man with cap and mug, in black and white
A hand-drawn map with the Turquino and an old photograph – memories in the hideout.
Thick trunks and palm fronds on the right in the jungle of the Sierra Maestra
Thick trunks and palm fronds in the jungle.
Lush slope with palms on the left, a palm in front of a cloud-covered hill on the right, Sierra Maestra
Lush slopes and a palm before a cloud-wrapped hill.
Large tree fern with light green, finely feathered fronds, Sierra Maestra
A large tree fern with pale green, finely feathered fronds.
White orchid with a violet lip on a tall stem, dark forest, Sierra Maestra
A white orchid with a purple lip in the dark forest.
Village path between corrugated-iron roofs, a long wooden house with banana plants on the right, Sierra Maestra
A village path between tin roofs – back through two small jungle villages.
Wooden house with a corrugated-iron roof behind red blossoms and hydrangeas, Sierra Maestra
A wooden house behind red flowers and hydrangeas.
Houses with palm and tin roofs behind a hedge, laundry on the wall, Sierra Maestra
Houses with palm and tin roofs behind the hedge, laundry on the wall.
Lettering Con Cuba para todos los tiempos on weathered wooden boards, Sierra Maestra
Con Cuba para todos los tiempos – on weathered boards.
Sunset behind the wooded ridges, forest in the foreground, Sierra Maestra
The sun sinks behind the wooded ridges of the Sierra Maestra.
Two details of the evening sky: wisps of cloud and red streaks above ridges, Sierra Maestra
Wisps of cloud and red streaks above the ridges.
Large cloud with an orange underside above black ridges of the Sierra Maestra
A cloud with a glowing underside above black mountains.