In the Old Imperial City of Fès

After the stopover in Midelt we headed for the last beautiful stop of our road trip: Fès, Morocco’s oldest imperial city. The drive there again led through an impressive, barren landscape that reminded me of Tibet.

Through the lanes to the tanneries of Fès

On our only full day we strolled through the narrow, colourful lanes, of course got lost a few times, and finally found the tanneries of Fès. As in Marrakesh, pieces of leather are dyed here in every colour. People seemed less pushy, and from some of the shops we had a lovely view of the tanneries – albeit with a smell that isn’t for every nose.

Madrasa, city gate and fountain

Afterwards we visited the Madrasa Attarine and the park by the magnificent city gate Bab Bou Jeloud, and strolled across the vegetable market back to the beautiful Nejjarine fountain. The old town of Fes el Bali was founded by the Idrisids between 789 and 808; it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has largely kept its maze of alleys and its city walls. The Chouara tannery is considered the largest and one of the oldest in the city and still works with round stone vats today.

Rock face with trees by the road, barren slope in the Atlas
Rock, trees and barren slopes – the drive to Fès reminded me of Tibet.
Double picture: low house in the steppe and trees on the slope, Atlas
A low house on the steppe and trees on the slope.
Tall conifers and a path with a small figure in the Atlas
Tall conifers, a small figure on the path below.
Double picture: dark herd on a scree slope and a patch of snow in the Atlas
A dark herd on the scree slope and a last patch of snow.
Barren plateau, a grazing animal and a farmstead on the ridge, Atlas
A barren plateau, a grazing animal and a farmstead on the ridge.
Flock of sheep in front of ruined stone walls, bare hills in the Atlas
Sheep in front of crumbling stone walls, bare hills behind.
Double picture: woman in a hat and a kneeling photographer in a blue lane, Fès
Blue tiles in the alley – she poses, he kneels with the camera.
Wall fountain with a zellige rosette and white stucco arch, Fès
A zellige rosette beneath a white stucco arch on a wall fountain.
Double picture: arched window with a grille and a silver candlestick, Fès
A barred arched window and a silver candlestick.
Two men in front of a studded gate under a wooden roof, Fès
Two men in front of a studded gate beneath a wooden canopy.
Tannery from above: dye vats and hanging hides, medina of Fès
The tannery from above: dyeing vats and hanging hides in the heart of the medina.
Carved wooden gate with golden rosettes under a stucco arch, Fès
A carved wooden door with golden rosettes beneath a stucco arch.
Minaret with green latticework above a narrow lane, Fès
A minaret with green latticework above the narrow alley.
Double picture: wooden sign of a small palace and tiled street sign Derb Tahri, Fès
Le petit palais traditionnel and the tiled sign Derb Tahri – of course we got lost a few times.
Minaret and green pyramid roof above the rooftops of Fès
A minaret and a green pyramid roof above the rooftops of Fès.
Tannery in Fès: round dye vats, pale vats and the medina behind
Round stone vats, pale basins and the medina behind – the tannery still works like this today.
Double picture: round dye vats and pale rectangular vats of the tannery, Fès
Round dyeing vats and pale rectangular basins, side by side.
Narrow dye vats in blue, green and brown, a tanner at the edge, Fès
Blue, green and brown in the dyeing vats, a tanner at the edge – the smell is not for every nose.
Double picture: weathered stucco inscription and blue zellige with script, Fès
A weathered stucco inscription and blue zellige with lettering.
Old studded wooden door with the number 2 beside it, lane in Fès
An old studded wooden door, the number 2 beside it.
Beam scales and pale blocks of sweets on a market stall, Fès
A balance scale and pale blocks of sweets on the market stall.
Portal of the Musée Nejjarine, muqarnas canopy and studded gate, Fès
The portal of the Musée Nejjarine with its muqarnas canopy.
Double picture: two stacks of colourful woven carpets, Fès
Colourful woven rugs piled high.
Colourful carpet with a triangle pattern and fringes on a wall, Fès
A rug with a triangle pattern and fringes on the wall.
Silver teapots on a tray in front of a wooden door, Fès
Silver teapots on a tray in front of the wooden door.
Double picture: red fezzes arranged like a flower and Arabic script, Fès
Red fezzes arranged like a flower and Arabic script on the wall.
Digits 8, 6 and 4 above a plastered arch, Fès
The digits 8, 6 and 4 above a plastered arch.
Portrait of a woman in a straw hat and glasses in a lane, Fès
Straw hat, glasses and a smile in the alley.
Carpet with a zigzag pattern and colourful border on a wall, Fès
A rug with a zigzag pattern and a colourful border.
Double picture: carved wooden door and a geometric wooden relief, Fès
A carved wooden door and a geometric wooden relief.
Stucco façade with a horseshoe arch and three small arches, Fès
A stucco façade with a horseshoe arch and three small arches.
Black calligraphy on zellige beneath a stucco frieze, Fès
Black calligraphy on zellige beneath a stucco frieze.
Double picture: wooden crates with red lettering and a shop under a red roof, Fès
Wooden crates with red lettering and a shop under a red roof.
Man in a green robe among beans and olives, vegetable market in Fès
A man in a green robe between beans and olives – the vegetable market.
Reclining man, boy in red, carrots, turnips and eggs, Fès
Carrots, turnips and eggs, someone napping behind, a boy in red in front.
Light green van and handcart with turnips, vegetable market in Fès
A pale green van and a handcart full of turnips.
Two cyclists under a high stone arch, a gate behind, Fès
Two cyclists beneath a tall stone arch, a gate behind.
Double picture: two details of zellige on a horseshoe arch, Fès
Zellige on a horseshoe arch, two close-ups.
Market tents in front of a gate between two towers, Fès
Market tents in front of a gate between two towers.
Double picture: seated man with herbs and a stall with carrots and cabbage, Fès
A man with herbs and a stall with carrots and cabbage.
Seated man in a white cap in front of a clay wall, Fès
A man in a white cap in front of the clay wall.
Donkey's head with a rope halter in front of a red door, Fès
A donkey's head with a rope halter in front of a red door.
Bab Bou Jeloud, blue tiled portal with battlements, view into the medina of Fès
The magnificent Bab Bou Jeloud gate with its blue tiles, the medina beyond.
Double picture: earrings on a stand and a handcart in the lane, Fès
Earrings on a stand and a handcart in the alley.
Orange and red leather bag on a white wall, Fès
An orange and a red leather bag on the white wall – dyed like in the tanneries.
Double picture: woman in a straw hat and the reflection of a photographer, Fès
A smile beneath a straw hat and the photographer in the mirror.
Chipped plaster above a black and white tile pattern, Fès
Flaking plaster above a black-and-white tile pattern.
Stacked red fezzes and folded fabrics at a stall, Fès
Red fezzes and folded fabrics stacked on a stall.