In Che Guevara’s City, Santa Clara

After Caibarién in the north we headed south again, with a stopover in Santa Clara, the city where Che Guevara became famous in a decisive battle and where he is buried today. Of course his myth is celebrated everywhere here.

A student town with a punk scene

Santa Clara is a pleasant little student town and quite different from the towns before: lots of young Cubans bring the streets and parks to life, and there is even a lively punk scene. An open-air museum shows the train wagons that Che Guevara and Fidel Castro destroyed in the fight against the government troops – although the wagons themselves weren’t very exciting. Much more interesting was a small, inconspicuous café close by, the Café Revolución: a Cuban displays old documents, photos and objects there and serves good coffee and delicious mojitos with them.

Sunset at the tomb

That was more worthwhile than the museum, we thought. For sunset we went on to the imposing tomb of Che Guevara.

Façade with balconies in Santa Clara, faded Villa and Ara below, in black and white
Balconies and arches, the faded lettering Villa Clara below.
Façade against clouds and the chrome front of a Chevrolet, in black and white
A façade against the clouds and the chrome front of a Chevrolet.
Orange classic car in front of a pink façade with an open door in Santa Clara
An orange classic car in front of a pink façade with an open door.
Colourful row of houses and a corner house with balconies in Santa Clara
Colourful rows of houses and a corner house with balconies in Santa Clara.
Older man in a straw hat sitting in front of a wooden door, a bottle beside him, Santa Clara
An older man in a straw hat outside his wooden door, a bottle beside him.
Church nave with columns, chandelier and altar in Santa Clara, in black and white
Columns, chandeliers and the altar – a church nave in Santa Clara.
Bookstall with many colourful titles against a house wall in Santa Clara
A book stall against a house wall, the covers as colourful as the town.
White and red bus in a residential street of Santa Clara
A white-and-red bus turns into a residential street.
Mural Africa in my Heart on a wall in Santa Clara, in black and white
Africa in my Heart, it says on the wall – Santa Clara is quite different from the towns before.
Laundry and a menu behind a barred window in Santa Clara, in black and white
Laundry and a menu behind the barred window.
Two dark doors and the sign Baños públicos, in black and white
Two dark doors and the words Baños públicos.
Snack bar with people waiting and a rusty No pase sign in Santa Clara
People waiting at a snack window, a rusty No pase sign beside them.
Riveted wagon wall with the lettering Logistica S-4 in Santa Clara
Logistica S-4 on riveted steel – one of the carriages in the open-air museum.
Photos of a derailed train and a display case with bottles and an M-26-7 armband
Photos of the derailed train, an M-26-7 armband in the display case.
White star in a circle on the riveted wall of a goods wagon in Santa Clara
A white star in a circle on the side of a freight car.
Goods wagon with Logistica S-4 and a star in a circle in Santa Clara
The freight car marked Logistica S-4 – the carriages themselves were not all that exciting.
Display board with a quote by Ernesto Che Guevara about El Vaquerito, in black and white
A panel with a quote by Che Guevara about El Vaquerito.
Independencia street sign on a blue wall in Santa Clara
Independencia – a street sign on a blue wall.
Mural with a Che portrait and the words por siempre Comandante
Che por siempre Comandante – his legend is celebrated everywhere here.
Photo wall with a clock and a man in a beret behind the counter, Santa Clara
Café Revolución: photos and a clock on the wall, the host behind the counter.
Wall full of framed photos, an old camera hanging below, in Santa Clara
A wall full of framed photos, an old camera hanging below.
Framed newspaper with the headline Santa Clara te espera el 26
An old newspaper in a frame: Santa Clara te espera el 26.
Framed photo of Che Guevara beneath large leaves, in black and white
Che Guevara in a picture frame, large leaves above.
Book spines by Ernesto Che Guevara and Fidel Castro, in black and white
Book spines by Che Guevara and Fidel Castro on the café's shelf.
Older man in a cap giving a thumbs-up in front of a yellow wall in Santa Clara
Thumbs up against a yellow wall.
Mural with figures on tracks and a face with the Cuban flag
Figures on rails and a face with the Cuban flag – murals in Santa Clara.
Street with a motorbike and classic cars, a green car beside them in Santa Clara
A motorbike, classic cars and a green car on the street.
Man with a bag photographing a blue classic car in Santa Clara
A man photographing a blue classic car – we are not the only ones.
Man in a cap and cross necklace pointing at himself in front of a wooden door in Santa Clara
Cap, cross necklace and a finger pointing at himself: Me?
Stone relief with fighters above railway wagons in Santa Clara
Fighters above railway carriages – the stone relief at Che Guevara's mausoleum.
Che statue and relief wall, plinth reading Hasta la victoria siempre, in black and white
Che Guevara's imposing mausoleum with its statue and relief wall.
Che portrait on the Cuban flag and the Hasta la victoria siempre statue
Che on the Cuban flag and his statue above Hasta la victoria siempre.
Rainbow spanning a dark, heavy cloudy sky
A rainbow arches across the heavy, cloudy sky.
View from the coach box onto the harnessed horse and the street in Santa Clara
From the coach box: the horse in front, the road ahead.
Cyclist and a woman in yellow trousers on the pavement in Santa Clara
Cyclists and a woman in yellow trousers on the pavement.
Horse and pedestrians, one in a flag shirt, from the carriage in Santa Clara
From the carriage: pedestrians, one in a flag shirt.
Paleticas ice-cream cart and a schoolgirl with a bicycle by the door in Santa Clara
A Paleticas ice-cream cart and a schoolgirl with a bicycle by the door.
Narrow detail: a car under arches on the left, a face against greenery on the right
A cart under arches and a face against green – a narrow slice.
Church façade with two towers and figures of saints in Santa Clara
Two towers and statues of saints: a church façade in Santa Clara.
Man with a long pole on the pavement and two schoolgirls in Santa Clara
A man with a long pole and two schoolgirls on the pavement – lots of young Cubans liven up the town.