On the Broken Road from Santiago de Cuba to Pilón

Since a hurricane in 2012 the road between Santiago de Cuba and Pilón in south-eastern Cuba has been hard to drive, especially around Pilón: it leads over collapsed bridges and in several places straight across the beach. Because our next destination was the Sierra Maestra and we had enough time, we ventured onto this route anyway.

140 kilometres in eight hours

In the end the roughly 140 kilometres took us eight hours. We had actually wanted to drive straight through to Santo Domingo in the Sierra Maestra, but to be on the safe side we spent the night in Pilón – after all that concentrated driving it did us good. On the way there were wonderful views of Cuba's coast and a few beaches for a break with a cold cerveza. The coast road, the Circuito Sur de Oriente, runs between the Caribbean and the Sierra Maestra, which here rises almost straight out of the sea.


Cattle and two pedestrians on the road from Santiago de Cuba to Pilón
Cattle and two pedestrians share the road – just outside Santiago it is still in good shape.
Rusty tank by a hut and a bay with houses on the way to Pilón
Left, a rusty tank by a hut; right, a bay with a few houses.
Older man in an open shirt under trees on the road to Pilón, in black and white
Shirt open, eyes alert: an encounter in the shade of the roadside trees.
Hill with red earth, rocks and bushes on the road to Pilón
Red earth, boulders and bushes on the slopes above the road.
Road with power poles and a fence in front of houses on the way to Pilón, in black and white
Left, the road beneath power poles; right, a fence of posts and wire.
Palm trees and banana plants in a meadow on the road to Pilón
Coconut palms and banana plants in a roadside meadow.
Palm trees and a low house on a green meadow on the road to Pilón
Tall palms above a low house in the greenery.
Painted rock with a figure and Patria o Muerte on the road to Pilón, in black and white
“Patria o Muerte” on a painted rock by the road.
Poster on the shore and a pale car on the coast road from Santiago de Cuba to Pilón
Left, a billboard on the shore; right, a classic car on the coast road between the Caribbean and the mountains.
Steep green mountains above a bay on the coast road to Pilón
Here the Sierra Maestra rises almost straight out of the sea – a bay below steep green slopes.
Wooded hill and a man on a horse cart on the road to Pilón
Left, a wooded hill; right, a horse-drawn cart on the road.
Bridge railing against clouds and green mountains on the road to Pilón
A bridge railing against clouds and green mountains – this bridge is still standing.
Track along the rocky shore and a road below the cliff on the way to Pilón
Left, the track along the rocky shore; right, the road beneath the cliff.
Clouds on wooded mountains and houses in the green on the road to Pilón
Clouds hang over the mountains, a few houses in the greenery below.
People on the road by the beach and a palm-leaf hut on the way to Pilón, in black and white
Left, people on the road by the beach; right, a hut with a palm-leaf roof.
Bridge between sea and mountain on the coast road from Santiago de Cuba to Pilón
A bridge between sea and mountain – patched, but passable.
Rocky knoll with houses and a fence of branches on the road to Pilón
Left, a rocky knoll above the houses; right, a fence made of branches.
Palm-leaf hut, flowering bushes and a rocky slope on the road to Pilón
A palm-thatched hut, flowering bushes and the rocky slope behind.
Overhanging rocky coast above turquoise water on the way to Pilón
The rocky coast overhangs turquoise water – views like this made up for the drive.
Basketball hoop and a person by a small house under trees on the road to Pilón
A basketball hoop beneath the trees, a small hut beside it.
Bicycle under a tree on the beach of the coast road to Pilón
A bicycle in the shade, the beach behind – time for a cold cerveza.
Winding track with several animals below a green slope on the way to Pilón
Animals on the winding track below the green slope.
Concrete pipe in the rock and a track on the pebble beach on the way to Pilón
A concrete tunnel in the rock, the track detouring onto the pebble beach.
Broken-off roadway on the pebble beach below the cliffs on the way to Pilón
The tarmac ends here: since the 2012 hurricane the route runs straight across the beach in several places.
Wooded mountains and surf at a headland on the coast road to Pilón
Left, forested mountains; right, surf at a headland.
Bridge with a patched roadway between green hills on the way to Pilón
A bridge with a patched road surface – around 140 kilometres in eight hours.
Valley with palms and a group of tall palms on the road to Pilón
Left, a valley with palms; right, a cluster of tall royal palms.
Long bay with a sandy beach and wooded slopes on the way to Pilón
A long bay with a sandy beach beneath wooded slopes – the Circuito Sur de Oriente.
Potholes and tree shadows on the track between rows of trees to Pilón
Potholes in the shade of the trees – shortly before Pilón, where we stayed the night to be safe.